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7pm: The evening meal is broth: vegetables cooked in water, and strained before the addition of miso paste. For added spice, piri-piri and olive oil can be added. While it felt strange for the first few days to be so full of liquid yet empty of food, there was none of that bloated, energy-sapped feeling you get digesting large amounts of solids. However, the knowledge that everything entering my body was for once virtuous was a tad mind-blowing. 7.45pm: Meditation. The rest of the evening is free to walk the dogs, watch a vid, read, satellite-gaze, or go crazy on ginger tea. Although I was initially dubious about such sustained sobriety, the exercise, sun, clean air and early starts meant that I was out for the count by 11 most nights. The beauty of the holistic approach is that while many retreats may administer similar treatments in a bid to purify the body, few concentrate so equally on the mind and the emotions, which are often the root of the body's problems. What I found most surprising was the emotional side of the detox: feelings that I would normally subsume by lighting up or glugging down some alcohol came to the fore. To my horror, I found tears rolling down my cheeks during difficult yoga moves or when my fellow fasters got on my nerves. But afterwards I felt release, and the highs that followed made up for the more difficult moments . |
The rest of the group were there for various reasons: one woman wanted relief from the ME she had suffered for several years, which rendered her unable to digest solid food; another sought help for her recuperation from a back operation. The only man in our group wanted to reduce his considerable frame after 20 years of excessive falafel consumption in the Middle East.
After years of basing my fitness regime around dancing and stairs machines, I could almost hear my muscles shouting "Yeeessss!" as I stretched them to their limits during yoga. While the pain of extending my hamstrings meant I was rendered tearful during forward bends (blame the high heels, apparently), the excitement of being able to touch my toes for the first time in 18 years - (the last successful attempt was when I was eight) was such a buzz that I almost took a lap of honour. The small groups and unhurried teaching offer a level of attention all too absent in big yoga centres, which means that even the roundest, wheeziest specimens were soon performing shoulder stands and balancing on one leg with aplomb.
I'm not the kind of girl who welcomes inanimate anal intrusion, so for me the twice-daily clysmatic was the most feared aspect of the fast. For those who have never experienced colonic irrigation, the clysmatic is used to remove the buildup of hardened deposits in the intestinal wall with the aid of around five litres of water. It was an unsavoury process, and the sensations produced were novel to say the least, yet the twice-daily evacuation triggered a feeling of lightness within. It's rather liberating, but I was disappointed that I failed to pass the black deposits which are the oldest and most toxic.
Wednesday is free day, which means a trip to nearby Lagos, the beach, or anywhere that gains the majority vote (no, not the pub). While it's a nice change to leave the farm and check out normality, I found the sight of portly tourists stuffing themselves with inordinately large plates of calamari nausea-inducing, and even my big weakness, ice-cream, didn't appeal. The local beaches are beautiful, however, and the days out offer the opportunity to see the world outside Moinhos Velhos. We felt like a travelling freak show, the Amazing Non-Eaters, but as an exercise in self-control, the outings proved that temptation is easily overcome.
The fast spans 10 days, after which food is gradually re-introduced: first fruit, then salad (I never thought that I would drool over lettuce), then a full meal on the final night (complete with wine - after the abstinence from alcohol I instantly felt rather tipsy!) It was strange, however, that having looked forward to it for so long, food was less intense in flavour than juice, and mastication seemed a lot of hassle, particularly as we were urged to chew each mouthful 36 times. The simplicity and innate freshness of juice makes readjustment to food, no matter how salivated over, a curious process. And while some of our number returned to eating like over-enthusiastic cows to cud, others didn't feel ready and stayed on the juice for a few more days.
Fasting might sound an extreme step to take, but to my surprise it was only on the rare occasions that I felt genuinely hungry. Indeed, only towards the end did I start to crave solids.
I left Moinhos Velhos slimmer, fitter and healthier. My eyes were clear, my tongue pink as a newborn pup's, and I felt as if the over-indulgence and stress of the past decade had been effectively removed. While re-integration meant balancing my new knowledge with my old lifestyle, sushi, Thai food accompanied by a glass or two of wine rendered me ecstatic in the first week. As for giving up smoking, the fast worked wonders - the removal of nicotine toxins flushes the physical addiction from the body quickly, effectively, and remarkably painlessly.
Moinhos Velhos taught me a lot about the benefits of healthy living, but more than that I learned to listen to my body, which includes being naughty once in a while. I was left in no doubt that the holistic approach is beneficial as an ethos, but it needs the time, space and aesthetically-pleasing environment offered by somewhere such as Moinhos Velhos to be truly effective. Which is why I intend to re-visit when my stress levels reach a level where my body threatens to revolt. In the meantime, lemon tea, anyone?
Way to go
Getting there: The nearest airport is Faro, and transport to Moinhos Velhos can be arranged by the staff at the farm. Go (0870 60 76543 go-fly.com) flies to Faro from London Stansted or Bristol for £112 return.
What it costs: Two-week programmes at Moinhos Velhos for the 2002 season run from March 3-October 27. Packages start from £1,800 for a single room with bath, excluding flight.
Further information from Moinhos Velhos, Cotifo, 8600 Lagos, Portugal (tel: l351 282 687 147, fax: 351 282 687 697, Moinhos-Velhos.com). Flight time from London: 3hr. Time difference: 0hrs. £1 = 3.11.69 escudos.
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Moinhos Velhos
Cotifo 8600-077,
Lagos, Algarve - Portugal
Tel: + 351 282 687 147 Fax: + 351 282 687 697
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